For Eyal Shani, food, like life, is poetic. The Israeli chef has built a global culinary empire with restaurants in New York, Singapore, Miami, Tel Aviv, and Los Angeles. On September 1, Shani and his team celebrated the opening of the new outpost of his elevated kosher restaurant Malka in Beverly Hills, bringing his famous fluffy pita and fresh Mediterranean cuisine to 90210. “The West Coast of the United States is like a magnet,” Shani told the Observer. “It’s a symbol of freedom and represents a whole new way of life and civilization, far removed from European influence on the East Coast.” Although he has had much success with fast-casual Miznon locations in Los Angeles, the opening of Marca marks a new era for Shani’s California footprint.
Shani is good at romanticizing everyday life. He is the type of creative person who tells stories with his hands and finds beauty in the ordinary, qualities that are reflected in his deceptively simple dishes. Although Malka is completely kosher, Shani’s end goal is not just to cook for members of the Jewish community. Instead, he is here to cook for everyone. “I want to interact with as many people as possible from different cultures and backgrounds around the world.”
If you’ve ever been to Eyal Shani’s restaurant, you know his fascination with tomatoes. At Mitsunon, juicy, fresh tomatoes were displayed on each table, and at Maruka’s opening party, the entrance was brightly decorated. This love for tomatoes (and produce in general) is the driving force behind Shani’s desire to expand his business throughout Southern California. His excitement grew during his first visit to the Santa Monica Farmers Market, which reminded him of the blessings of Israel during its heyday. “In New York, we use fresh ingredients, but we don’t expect freshness,” he explains. “There’s a big difference. Here you can work with living things.” Amid his latest restaurant launch, Shani sat down with Observer to share the key rituals, philosophies, and ingredients that flavor his life both in and out of the kitchen.